Smoking Pipe

Wednesday, December 12, 2007

How can I fix the loose stem of pipe?

Even if you're careful to never remove the stem from a hot pipe, you may occasionally be faced with a loose stem. Often this problem will fix itself with time, but if the stem is so loose that it is in danger of falling out, then something must be done.

The safest bet is to take the pipe to a tobacconist or send it to a repairperson. These people will have a great deal of practice performing this task, and they will do it for a very modest fee. It is remarkably easy for an amateur to crack a shank while attempting this repair, as many of us can sadly attest.

Nevertheless, if you are determined to do this yourself, you must first determine what sort of stem you have. If the stem is lucite, the easiest fix is to apply a very thin layer of clear nail polish to the tenon, allow this to dry completely, and then carefully sand the tenon to fit. A vulcanite stem, on the other hand, is a bit more complicated, as you will need to heat the tenon and expand it in some way. There are a number of variations to this procedure, but the most common one is described below.

First, remove the stem from the pipe and insert a pipe cleaner into the stem so that it just reaches the end of the tenon (this is to ensure that you don't collapse the air hole). Next, carefully heat the tenon over a match for about five seconds (the intent is to soften the vulcanite, not melt it).

Then gently press the end of the tenon against a flat surface, keeping the tenon as perpendicular to the surface as possible, taking care not bend the tenon to one side or the other. After the stem has cooled, test fit it. If the stem is still too loose, repeat this procedure.

If it is now too tight, then see "What should I do with a stem that's too tight?" below. NOTE: It is very easy to ruin a perfectly good pipe with this technique, and I feel I should reiterate my earlier statement that this job is best undertaken by a "professional."

A less radical (and much safer) procedure that has been recommended to me by several people is to simply rub the stem's tenon against a block of beeswax until the tenon is well coated. Once this is complete, reinsert the stem. I am told that the joint will tighten after a smoke or two.

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Monday, December 10, 2007

Keeping Your Pipe Stems Shining Like New

First, we have to give credit where credit is due. This tip comes from the video "Total Pipe Care and Maintenance". We've all had our vulcanite rubber stems turn that nasty brown/green that happens over time.

This is oxidization. Oxidization comes from the chemical reaction from the saliva in our mouths reacting with the vulcanite and from sunlight. This unsightly process can be slowed with a simple product that you most likely already have in your kitchen... olive oil.

This process is best done with a brand new stem or a stem that has been thoroughly cleaned. First, take the stem from the bowl. With your finger take a very small amount of olive oil and coat the outside surface of the stem. Allow the olive oil to penetrate for about 5 - 10 minutes. Now take a clean cotton rag and wipe off the excess.

It's that simple! Here's why it works... If you look at a vulcanite stem under magnification you'd see that there are thousands, if not millions, of tiny pits in the surface, similar to an english muffin.

This is normal. By applying the olive oil to the stem the microscopic pits get filled by the oil leaving less surface area on the stem for the oxidation to get a foot hold. You'll also want to keep your pipe out of sunlight, direct or otherwise, for any extended period of time.

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Sunday, December 09, 2007

Cross section of a pipe

The pipe itself is made up of a number of individual components, each with its own function. While pipes come in all shapes and sizes, the parts described below are common to all pipes.

The mouthpiece: The mouthpiece forms the end part of the pipe. It forms a hermetic seal with the stem, although it can be unscrewed from the latter for cleaning purposes. The shape of the mouthpiece plays a key role in the pipe smoking experience. In general, distinction can be made between two main mouthpiece shapes: tapered models (straight and simple) and saddle-type models (with a triangular notch). All mouthpieces have a flat (‘wide bore’) or round (‘round bore’) opening. In some cases, the mouthpiece is split in two internally; these mouthpieces are referred to as ‘twin-bore’.

The stem: The stem, also referred to as shank, is an extension of the bowl. The bowl and the stem are always made from a single piece. The stem is hollow inside, and leads the smoke from the bowl to the mouthpiece. Some pipes have an opening in the stem, through which ‘false’ air is sucked in, so that the smoke is thinner, making it less sharp.

The bit: The bit is the very tip of the mouthpiece, which is held between the teeth or lips. the shape of the bit largely determines the smoking enjoyment. The most widely-used bit shape is known as the fishtail, which has a flat, right-angled end. The smoke passes through it in a relatively wide stream, directly onto the tongue. In the case of the lip bit, the top part of the mouthpiece is semicircular, while the bottom part is recessed. The opening is located on the top of the semicircular part. The smoke passes through it first onto the palate. Finally, the dental bit has a distinct profile, which gives greater support.

The flue: The hollow space through which the smoke is led from the bowl via the stem to the mouthpiece is known as the flue. A system can be fitted in the flue as an extra feature to regulate and cool the air flow, or to counteract the moisture which arises when the tobacco is burnt.

The bowl: The bowl is the round, broad part of the pipe, into which the pot is ground. The size of the bowl is closely linked with the type of tobacco to be smoked in it. In general, a large bowl is best suited for smoking tobacco which burns relatively quickly, while smaller bowls are most appropriate for slower-burning tobacco types.

The pot: The pot is the part of the pipe which is filled with tobacco, which is then lit.

The floc: The part of the mouthpiece which screws into the stem is known as the floc. The fact that the floc breaks easily, makes it one of the most vulnerable parts of the pipe.

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The Parts Composition of A Smoking Pipe

There are some parts of a pipe, they are bowl, heel, shank, stem, bit, bite-proof stem, amberoid stem, bakelite stem, amber, vulcanite, lucite, horn stem and bone stem.

BOWL: The part of the pipe that holds the tobacco.

HEEL: The base of the inside of the pipe bowl.

SHANK: The part of the pipe that joins the bowl and the stem.

STEM: The part that connects the shank with the bit. Examine it carefully. Its quality, finish and fit will reveal the maker's carelessness or attention to detail.

BIT: The part of the pipe stem that fits in the mouth. Also called the MOUTHPIECE.

BITE-PROOF STEM: A bit designed with a solid center portion at the mouth to prevent the "canine" tooth from punching a hole in it as readily as is done in a standard bit.

AMBEROID STEM: A fusion of Bakelite and pure amber - usually used with meerschaum pipes.

BAKELITE STEM: Trade name for a synthetic resin widely used for lacquers and varnishes and as a plastic. A common material used for the stem, especially of mass produced pipes. An alternative to vulcanite.

AMBER: brittle, feels like glass to the teeth - Usually used with meerschaum pipes.

VULCANITE: A dark-colored variety of India rubber that has been subjected to vulcanization : also called "hard rubber." A common material used for the stem, especially of mass produced pipes.

LUCITE: Trade name for a plastic. A common material used for the stem, especially of mass produced pipes.

HORN STEM: Animal horn - often found on inferior meerschaum pipes

BONE STEM: Animal bone - often found on inferior meerschaum pipes

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