The Right Pipe Cleaner For The Job

There are many things in life that are "one size fits all". Unfortunately pipe cleaners are not one of those things. Pipe cleaners come in many sizes and styles. There are "regular", extra fluffy or absorbent, tapered, bristle and so called "churchwarden" pipe cleaners named for the extra long length.

Regular pipe cleaners have been the bread and butter cleaner for a very long time. They are easy to find, fit just about any size pipe and do a very good job. Some pipe smokers use them exclusively. While they work well in most cases I wanted to take the time to expand your pipe cleaner horizons.

Each of the other styles serve a more specific purpose which I'll cover briefly for your reading pleasure. Fluffy pipe cleaners are great for pipes with larger airways and passages. You should use them when you notice that a regular size pipe cleaner just isn't snug enough to do a thorough cleaning job.

Don't force them down a stem if it feels too tight ... we've recovered many a broken off fluffy cleaner in folks prized pipes. Fluffy cleaners also work great in the airway of the briar bowl itself which tends to be drilled larger than the stem. Tapered pipe cleaners work well on pipe that have a lot of bend to them. They will normally glide down the stems of even the most sharply bent pipes.

I know each of us has a pipe or two that might not take a regular pipe cleaner all the way from the button on the stem to the bottom of the bowl without separating the pipe ... perfect time to use the tapered cleaner. The bristle pipe cleaner is essentially a regular size pipe cleaner that has nylon bristle embedded along it's length. These are my favorites. They do a superb job of cleaning even the cruddiest of pipes while still maintaining good absorbency.

Using bristle cleaners will allow you to go longer between through cleaning of your pipe and when you have to it'll be less of challenging job.

Churchwarden or extra long pipe cleaners are the only way to go for your long stemmed pipes. They can also be economical for your regular length pipes because you can cut them in halve or even thirds. What ever you do, you owe it to yourself and your pipe smoking enjoyment to not skimp on pipe cleaners, don't use the ones that you find in arts and craft store and experiment with different types.

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How to clean your meerschaum pipe

Without regular and diligent cleaning, your wonderful new meerschaum will become a soggy, ill-tasting mess, and will no longer provide you with the smoking pleasure you desire. To eliminate such problems, you need to embark on a regimen of regular cleaning and maintainance for your meerschaums.

Materials Needed:

• Tapered Pipe Cleaners
• Bristle Pipe Cleaners
• Regular or extra fluffy pipe cleaners
• shank brush or cotton swab
• pipe tool or pick

Concerning 'Coloring':

One of the joys of owning and smoking a meerschaum pipe is watching it slowly change color, from a milky white to a dark brown. When you first get a meerschaum pipe, be careful that your hands are clean as you smoke it for the first few times. Meerschaum pipes are coated in beeswax which aids in the coloring process and protects the brittle meerschaum. As the pipe heats during smoking (and be careful not to get it too hot) the beeswax melts. If your hands are dirty, the beeswax will pick up that dirt. Though some suggest not touching the bowl of a meerschaum pipe while smoking it, I think this is a little extreme. Just take care that your hands are clean and dry.

A sample 'Coloring' regimen:

There are many different ways to go about coloring your meerschaum pipe, but one of the simplest is as follows:

Smoke your meerschaum several times a day for about two weeks. Unlike a briar pipe, meerschaums do not need long periods of rest between smokes, and can safely be smoked multiple times in a day. Do, however, allow the pipe to cool between bowls. After this two weeks, your meerschaum should be noticeably heavier than when you began, owing to the amount of tars and oils now trapped inside the meerschaum. Put your meerschaum aside for a period of about one month. During this time, the beeswax will wick the tars and oils towards the surface of the pipe, coloring it in the process. Repeat and enjoy!

Before Smoking:

The care and cleaning of your pipe begins with your very first smoke, and should continue forward from there. Before each smoke, run a pipe cleaner, either bristle or regular, through the stem to dislodge any leftover ash and dottle, and gently tap your pipe on a cork knocker or the palm of your hand to remove these obstructions from the bowl. Be especially careful when tapping a meerschaum pipe to hold it by the shank, never by the stem!

While Smoking:

During a smoke is an excellent time to begin the process of caring for your pipe. You can begin by paying careful attention when lighting your pipe. Keep your flame source over the tobacco, so that it does not char the rim of your pipe. Unlike a briar pipe, it is near impossible to remove this rim charring from a meerschaum pipe, so it pays to be extra careful in this department. During smoking is also when you will notice if a more thorough cleaning is in order. If a pipe begins to taste sour, salty, or just plain bad while smoking it, it is probably time for a good cleaning. See Periodic Cleaning below.

After Smoking:

First, a warning: Always remove a stem from a meerschaum pipe by twisting it gently clockwise while supporting the shank with your fingers. At the end of each smoke, your pipe should be given a good cleaning. Dump out the ash and dottle, and run a bristle pipe cleaner around the inside of the bowl to remove any possible cake build-up. Unlike a briar pipe, a meerschaum requires no cake, and in some instances, a cake can be detrimental to a meerschaum, either slowing the coloring process, or causing the pipe to crack. Clean out the stem with a bristle pipe cleaner once, remove it, and either turn it around or use another pipe cleaner, repeating this process until the pipe cleaners come out clean. Moisten a pipe cleaner with saliva and rub the mouthpiece with it to remove any buildup there. Blow gently through the stem of the pipe to dislodge any leftover ash and wipe your pipe down with a soft dry cloth. Place the pipe back on it's rack or stand and allow it to cool.

Periodically:

You will want to, on occasion, give your pipes a more thorough cleaning than just swabbing out the stem after smoking. Most smokers do this fairly regularly, some going so far as to do so after all of their pipes have been smoked once, thus providing themselves with a fresh, clean rotation of pipes. You will have to experiment a bit with how often you do this clenaing to find what works best for you. To start this cleaning, carefully remove the stem of the pipe from the bowl and lay the two pieces on a paper towel. Dip a regular pipe cleaner in alchohol and run it through the stem, from the tenon to the mouthpiece, pulling it through. It will most likely come out with a bit of black or brown gunk on it. Follow this pipe cleaner with a dry one, and repeat until the moist pipe cleaner comes out the same color it was when it went in. Push one final dry pipe cleaner through to remove any moisture and set the stem aside.

The Right Pipe Cleaner For The Job

There are many things in life that are "one size fits all". Unfortunately pipe cleaners are not one of those things. Pipe cleaners come in many sizes and styles.

There are "regular", extra fluffy or absorbent, tapered, bristle and so called "churchwarden" pipe cleaners named for the extra long length. Regular pipe cleaners have been the bread and butter cleaner for a very long time. They are easy to find, fit just about any size pipe and do a very good job.

Some pipe smokers use them exclusively. While they work well in most cases I wanted to take the time to expand your pipe cleaner horizons. Each of the other styles serve a more specific purpose which I'll cover briefly for your reading pleasure.

Fluffy pipe cleaners are great for pipes with larger airways and passages. You should use them when you notice that a regular size pipe cleaner just isn't snug enough to do a thorough cleaning job. Don't force them down a stem if it feels too tight ... we've recovered many a broken off fluffy cleaner in folks prized pipes.

Fluffy cleaners also work great in the airway of the briar bowl itself which tends to be drilled larger than the stem. Tapered pipe cleaners work well on pipe that have a lot of bend to them. They will normally glide down the stems of even the most sharply bent pipes.

I know each of us has a pipe or two that might not take a regular pipe cleaner all the way from the button on the stem to the bottom of the bowl without separating the pipe ... perfect time to use the tapered cleaner. The bristle pipe cleaner is essentially a regular size pipe cleaner that has nylon bristle embedded along it's length. These are my favorites. They do a superb job of cleaning even the cruddiest of pipes while still maintaining good absorbency.

Using bristle cleaners will allow you to go longer between through cleaning of your pipe and when you have to it'll be less of challenging job. Churchwarden or extra long pipe cleaners are the only way to go for your long stemmed pipes. They can also be economical for your regular length pipes because you can cut them in halve or even thirds.

What ever you do, you owe it to yourself and your pipe smoking enjoyment to not skimp on pipe cleaners, don't use the ones that you find in arts and craft store and experiment with different types.

Keeping Your Bowl Rim Clean

A charred, sticky and caked bowl rim is nothing but an eyesore. There are a few things you can do to keep it looking good. For this article lets assume that your bowl rim is already clean or new.

First, never pack your pipe all the way to the top. +/- 1/4" from the top is ideal depending on the overall depth of the tobacco chamber. This will allow room for the tobacco to expand when you light and still not touch the top and will keep you from putting the bowl rim in direct contact with flame.

Second, take a little saliva and rub it on the bowl rim before you light. This will keep the flame from charring the briar.

And last but not least, always clean your bowl rim when you are finished smoking your pipe. While the pipe is still warm apply saliva to the rim and wipe with a soft cloth or paper towel until clean. Saliva does an amazing job of breaking down and cleaning tobacco gum and tar.

For more stubborn tar or pipes with a rusticated or burl rim an old toothbrush and saliva work wonders. I realized some of you might be put off by the use of saliva but give it a try and you'll be pleasantly surprised.

How To Clean and Care For Meerschaum Pipe

Without regular and diligent cleaning, your wonderful new meerschaum will become a soggy, ill-tasting mess, and will no longer provide you with the smoking pleasure you desire. To eliminate such problems, you need to embark on a regimen of regular cleaning and maintainance for your meerschaums.

Materials Needed:

• Tapered Pipe Cleaners
• Bristle Pipe Cleaners
• Regular or extra fluffy pipe cleaners
• shank brush or cotton swab
• pipe tool or pick

Concerning 'Coloring':

One of the joys of owning and smoking a meerschaum pipe is watching it slowly change color, from a milky white to a dark brown. When you first get a meerschaum pipe, be careful that your hands are clean as you smoke it for the first few times.

Meerschaum pipes are coated in beeswax which aids in the coloring process and protects the brittle meerschaum. As the pipe heats during smoking (and be careful not to get it too hot) the beeswax melts. If your hands are dirty, the beeswax will pick up that dirt.

Though some suggest not touching the bowl of a meerschaum pipe while smoking it, I think this is a little extreme. Just take care that your hands are clean and dry.

A sample 'Coloring' regimen:

There are many different ways to go about coloring your meerschaum pipe, but one of the simplest is as follows:
Smoke your meerschaum several times a day for about two weeks. Unlike a briar pipe, meerschaums do not need long periods of rest between smokes, and can safely be smoked multiple times in a day. Do, however, allow the pipe to cool between bowls.

After this two weeks, your meerschaum should be noticeably heavier than when you began, owing to the amount of tars and oils now trapped inside the meerschaum. Put your meerschaum aside for a period of about one month.

During this time, the beeswax will wick the tars and oils towards the surface of the pipe, coloring it in the process. Repeat and enjoy!

Before Smoking:

The care and cleaning of your pipe begins with your very first smoke, and should continue forward from there. Before each smoke, run a pipe cleaner, either bristle or regular, through the stem to dislodge any leftover ash and dottle, and gently tap your pipe on a cork knocker or the palm of your hand to remove these obstructions from the bowl.

Be especially careful when tapping a meerschaum pipe to hold it by the shank, never by the stem!

While Smoking:

During a smoke is an excellent time to begin the process of caring for your pipe. You can begin by paying careful attention when lighting your pipe. Keep your flame source over the tobacco, so that it does not char the rim of your pipe.

Unlike a briar pipe, it is near impossible to remove this rim charring from a meerschaum pipe, so it pays to be extra careful in this department. During smoking is also when you will notice if a more thorough cleaning is in order. If a pipe begins to taste sour, salty, or just plain bad while smoking it, it is probably time for a good cleaning. See Periodic Cleaning below.

After Smoking:

First, a warning: Always remove a stem from a meerschaum pipe by twisting it gently clockwise while supporting the shank with your fingers. At the end of each smoke, your pipe should be given a good cleaning.

Dump out the ash and dottle, and run a bristle pipe cleaner around the inside of the bowl to remove any possible cake build-up. Unlike a briar pipe, a meerschaum requires no cake, and in some instances, a cake can be detrimental to a meerschaum, either slowing the coloring process, or causing the pipe to crack.

Clean out the stem with a bristle pipe cleaner once, remove it, and either turn it around or use another pipe cleaner, repeating this process until the pipe cleaners come out clean. Moisten a pipe cleaner with saliva and rub the mouthpiece with it to remove any buildup there. Blow gently through the stem of the pipe to dislodge any leftover ash and wipe your pipe down with a soft dry cloth. Place the pipe back on it's rack or stand and allow it to cool.

Periodically:

You will want to, on occasion, give your pipes a more thorough cleaning than just swabbing out the stem after smoking. Most smokers do this fairly regularly, some going so far as to do so after all of their pipes have been smoked once, thus providing themselves with a fresh, clean rotation of pipes. You will have to experiment a bit with how often you do this clenaing to find what works best for you.

To start this cleaning, carefully remove the stem of the pipe from the bowl and lay the two pieces on a paper towel. Dip a regular pipe cleaner in alchohol and run it through the stem, from the tenon to the mouthpiece, pulling it through.

It will most likely come out with a bit of black or brown gunk on it. Follow this pipe cleaner with a dry one, and repeat until the moist pipe cleaner comes out the same color it was when it went in. Push one final dry pipe cleaner through to remove any moisture and set the stem aside.

How To Clean Briar Pipe

Without regular and diligent cleaning, your wonderful new pipe will become a soggy, ill-tasting mess, and will no longer provide you with the smoking pleasure you desire. To eliminate such problems, you need to embark on a regimen of regular cleaning and maintainance for your pipes.

There some materials needed first:

• Tapered Pipe Cleaners
• Bristle Pipe Cleaners
• Regular or extra fluffy pipe cleaners
• Pipe sweetener or grain alcohol
• Shank brush or cotton swab
• Pipe reamer
• Pipe tool or pick

Concerning 'Rotation':

A smokers rotation is the number of pipes they own, and the order they are smoked in. This is an important concept to the care and cleaning of your pipes.

First and foremost, because pipes need a rest in between smokes if they are to continue to function optimally.

Before Smoking:

The care and cleaning of your pipe begins with your very first smoke, and should continue forward from there.

Before each smoke, run a pipe cleaner, either bristle or regular, through the stem to dislodge any leftover ash and dottle, and gently tap your pipe on a cork knocker or the palm of your hand to remove these obstructions from the bowl.

While Smoking:

During a smoke is an excellent time to begin the process of caring for your pipe. You can begin by paying careful attention when lighting your pipe. Keep your flame source over the tobacco, so that it does not char the rim of your pipe. If the rim of your pipes begin to develop a bit of a dark tint to them, it can usually be removed by moistening a pipe cleaner with saliva and gently rubbing the rim of the pipe with it.

Done regularly, this will eliminate the cause of the charred, blackened rims so common on un-cared-for pipes. During smoking is also when you will notice if a more thorough cleaning is in order.

If a pipe begins to taste sour, salty, or just plain bad while smoking it, it is probably time for a good cleaning. See Periodic Cleaning below.

After Smoking:

First, a warning: Do not remove the stem of a pipe while it is still warm. This will cause the stem to loosen, and can cause you to crack the shank or break the tenon of your pipe.

At the end of each smoke, your pipe should be given a good cleaning. Allow the pipe to cool, and then stir up any ash and dottle left in the bottom of the bowl. Placing one finger or the palm of your hand over the top of the bowl, shake the pipe for a few seconds to evenly distribute the ash along the inside walls of the bowl, which will greatly speed the formation of 'cake', a protective layer of carbonized tobacco and ash inside your pipe.

Cake acts as an insulator, greatly extending the life of your pipe and guarding against burn outs. See the Periodic Cleaning section below for instructions on maintaining the cake, Dump out the remaining ash and dottle, and run a bristle pipe cleaner through the stem until it is just barely visible in the bottom of the bowl.

Remove it, and either turn it around or use another pipe cleaner, repeating this process until the pipe cleaners come out clean. Moisten a pipe cleaner with saliva and rub the mouthpiece with it to remove any buildup there.

Blow gently through the stem of the pipe to dislodge any leftover ash and wipe your pipe down with a soft cloth, perhaps impregnated with a compound such as Briar Pipe Wipe.

If you wish, you may insert a regular pipe cleaner into the stem of the pipe before placing it back on the rack, in order to absorb any residual moisture, but if you are diligent in using your pipe cleaners, this is not necessary.

Place the pipe back on it's rack or stand and allow it to rest, hopefully for two to four days before it is smoked again.

Periodically:

You will want to, on occasion, give your pipes a more thorough cleaning than just swabbing out the stem after smoking. Most smokers do this fairly regularly, some going so far as to do so after all of their pipes have been smoked once, thus providing themselves with a fresh, clean rotation of pipes.

You will have to experiment a bit with how often you do this clenaing to find what works best for you. To start this cleaning, carefully remove the stem of the pipe from the bowl and lay the two pieces on a paper towel. Dip a regular pipe cleaner in alcohol and run it through the stem, from the tenon to the mouthpiece, pulling it through. It will most likely come out with a bit of black or brown gunk on it.

Follow this pipe cleaner with a dry one, and repeat until the moist pipe cleaner comes out the same color it was when it went in. Push one final dry pipe cleaner through to remove any moisture and set the stem aside. Using bristle pipe cleaners, moistened with alcohol, vigorously swab out the airhole of the pipe, alternating with dry, regular pipe cleaners.

Don't be afraid to use a lot of pipe cleaners doing this. Pipe cleaners are cheap, new pipes aren't. If the airhole of your pipe is large enough in diameter that there is little resistance when you do this, you may want to fold the cleaner in half in order to scrub the sides of the airhole properly.

Once your dry pipe cleaner comes out of the airhole the same color it was when it went in, run one more dry cleaner through the airhole to absorb any residual moisture. Using a cotton swab or shank brush, clean out the tenon, the portion of the pipe where the stem attaches to the bowl. a doubled over regular pipe cleaner will do in a pinch.

If your stem or bowl has a band, now is the time to polish it, using a good silver, or other metal, polish, depending on what your band is made of. Carefully reinsert the stem into the bowl, and give the pipe a good wipe with a soft cloth, perhaps impregnated with a compound such as Briar Pipe Wipe.

Cleaning over, allow your pipe to sit for a day or so before smoking it, to allow the alcohol to completely evaporate. If you have cleaned most or all of your briar pipes at once, now is a good time to smoke your meerschaums and corncobs you have been neglecting.