Smoking Pipe

Re Kent: Some good beginner tobaccos

2008-04-16T19:40:00.000-07:00

Hi there, my name is Kent and I live in the USA. I enjoyed your blog posts on pipes. I have recently begun smoking.

Could you recommend some good beginner tobaccos? The key word for me is definitely "calm".

My dad used to smoke drugstore black and mild and I enjoyed the smell greatly not sure if the same tobaccos you recommend would be available to me, but it's worth a shot.

I'll echo those recommending that you avoid the "drugstore tobacco" route. There's no reason why you have to start there. And if you do, the odds are good that your first pipe experience won't be a pleasant one.

A sampler of small 1 or 2 oz. bags/tins would be a good way to go, giving you the chance to see just what interests you in a blend. Most new pipesmokers seem to start with aromatics - tobaccos flavored to smell (and usually taste) like something other than real tobacco.

But there's no rule that says you have to start there; in fact, some aromatics - especially drugstore aromatics - will smoke so hot and wet that they'd likely put you off the pipe for good.

If you don't want to try a sampler, I'd suggest starting with a high-quality aromatic that won't smoke hot or cause tongue bite: Cornell & Diehl's Autumn Evening. It's a maple flavored tobacco that smells a lot like maple but tastes a lot like real tobacco.

And I'll also suggest trying a light English blend. It's been a long time since I've smoked a light English (I favor heavier English/Balkan/Virginia blends), but if you just want to buy a tin, I don't think you would go wrong with Dunhill's Early Morning Pipe.

If you're calling Pipeworks & Wilke or Cornell & Diehl to place an order (you might also try www.smokingpipes.com), just tell them your situation and ask for their recommendations.

Pipetips was updated lastday

2008-03-16T19:57:00.001-07:00

Now, the pipetips.com has been updated. The new version of pipetips are major about the pipe's photo, I will upload some photos everyday. and welcome to our new pipetips and join the discussions.

Why Do Guys Buy Expensive Pipes?

2007-12-12T21:40:00.000-08:00

Good question. Will a $500 pipe smoke 10 times better than a $50 pipe? Probably not. Does this mean the $500 pipe is a "poor value"? Not necessarily.

Like most things in life, you generally get what you pay for when you buy a pipe. A number of factors contribute to the price of a pipe, not the least of which is the amount of time and energy expended in its production.

A machine can crank out a pipe in less than a minute, but a craftsman may spend a day or more carving a single pipe, and such a pipe is as much a work of art as it is a smoking instrument. Smoking these sculptures in briar can provide tremendous pleasure, and many people are willing to pay for the privilege.

On the other hand, many people are perfectly content to smoke so-called "cheap" pipes. These people think that spending a large sum of money on a hunk of wood that serves only to hold burning tobacco is irresponsible, foolish, or both. These people do have a point, as it is certainly possible to buy an inexpensive, machine-made pipe that smokes perfectly well.

Like so many other aspects in this hobby, it all boils down to personal preference. The important thing is to smoke what you like, and don't get your nose out of joint if someone else's tastes differ from yours.

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Grand Cut Pipe Tobacco Reviews
Georgetown's Night Owl Pipe Tobacco Reviews

How Should I Care For My Meerschaum Pipes?

2007-12-12T21:36:00.000-08:00

First, and most importantly, don't drop it. Meerschaum is fragile, and it is very unlikely that your pipe will survive a dive to the kitchen floor.

Second, do not allow a cake to build in the bowl (firmly swabbing out all the ash residue with a bent pipe cleaner after each smoke should do the trick). If your pipe does start to build a cake, then ream it out very carefully.

Third, if your pipe has a screw-in shank fitting (as most meerschaums do), twist the stem clockwise while removing it; twisting counter-clockwise could unscrew the fitting, and doing so repeatedly can strip the shank threads.

Finally, meerschaum is a very absorbent, inorganic material, and does not require the same "rest period" that briars do. Still, I would at least allow the pipe to cool and dry completely before loading up and smoking it again.

Many meerschaum aficionados claim that to insure proper "coloring" of the bowl you should never hold the bowl with your bare hands while smoking. This may be true, but I would much rather have a meerschaum with an unevenly colored bowl than to have to go through the hassle of holding my pipe by the stem or (horrors!) wearing kid gloves to smoke.

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How Should I Polish My Pipes?

2007-12-12T08:42:00.000-08:00

Vulcanite stems can oxidize, turning a disgusting brownish green color. This is one case where "an ounce of prevention" definitely pays off. Avoid exposing vulcanite stems to direct sunlight whenever possible, and wipe off your stems after each use. When oxidation does begin to form, it can often be removed with a mild abrasive, such as baking soda or toothpaste.

If the oxidation is too severe for this treatment, jeweler's rouge or an automobile rubbing compound will often do the trick. For truly stubborn stems more drastic measures may be required. An overnight soak in household bleach will turn your stems black again, but you should be careful to cover any stem logos with a blob of petroleum jelly to protect them prior to soaking, and you should be prepared to apply some elbow grease to polish the stem surface, which will be roughened by this treatment.

Professionals (and "serious amateurs") remove oxidation with a buffing wheel loaded with Tripoli or some similar abrasive and then apply carnuba wax to protect the stem and bring out a high shine. If you wish to put a buffing rig, consult with someone experienced in such matters. It's all too easy to burn a stem on a buffing wheel running at excessively high speed or, for that matter, to catapult a briar into your face.

What Can I Do When My Pipe "Turns Sour"?

2007-12-12T01:17:00.000-08:00

A pipe, properly cared for, will probably outlast its owner. Occasionally, however, a pipe may begin to taste bitter or "sour." Sometimes this is caused by not allowing the pipe sufficient time to "rest" between smokes; other times, no cause can be determined with certainty.

In any event, such a pipe can usually be rejuvenated by applying the "Professor's Pipe-Sweetening Treatment," publicized by Dennis Congos.

First, find some salt (non-iodized is preferred, but not essential), some alcohol (preferably "Everclear," or some other form of near-pure, non-denatured ethanol), and a place to rest your pipe in a semi-upright position.

Insert a pipe cleaner into the stem of the pipe so that it extends into the shank. Fill the bowl to the rim with salt and drip or carefully pour alcohol into the bowl until the salt is just saturated. Try not to get any alcohol on the pipe's exterior, as this may damage the finish; any spills should be wiped up immediately.

Leave the pipe alone for a day or two. After this time the salt will have turned brown from the absorption of "tars" from the bowl. Thoroughly clean all salt from the bowl and set the pipe aside overnight to dry completely. Your pipe will now be revitalized, and all traces of bitterness should be gone.

WARNING: Many people swear by this process, but the procedure is not risk-free. Some people have had pipes crack after this treatment, particularly when they allowed the salt and alcohol mixture to enter the pipe's shank and/or when they left the mixture in the pipe for several days. Any pipe with significant monetary or sentimental value should be sent to a professional pipe repairperson.

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How Should I Ream My Pipes?

2007-12-12T01:15:00.000-08:00

After a pipe has been smoked for a long time its cake may become so thick that it significantly reduces the capacity of the bowl. In very extreme cases, an overly thick cake may actually crack the bowl due to differential expansion.

Ideally, the cake should not exceed one-sixteenth of an inch (about 1.5 mm) or so. When the cake exceeds this thickness, it should be carefully reamed. Some pipe tools have a blunt-pointed (to prevent gouging of the bowl bottom) knife blade for this purpose.

While these will work, it is very easy to trim the cake unevenly or even inadvertently dig into bare wood. Numerous adjustable, multibladed reamers are available commercially, and these will do a much neater job. My favorite tool for this task--suggested to me by pipe remairman extraordinaire JT Cooke--is nothing more than a series of short wooden dowels of varying diameters that I wrap with fine grit emery cloth or sandpaper.

Whatever device you choose to use, work very slowly and carefully to prevent damage to your pipe. The idea is to gradually shave the cake down to the proper thickness, not to scrape it out in chunks.

If you have more than the usual number of thumbs, you might want to take the pipe to your tobacconist, who will usually perform this task for a nominal fee.

How can I fix the loose stem of pipe?

2007-12-12T00:30:00.000-08:00

Even if you're careful to never remove the stem from a hot pipe, you may occasionally be faced with a loose stem. Often this problem will fix itself with time, but if the stem is so loose that it is in danger of falling out, then something must be done.

The safest bet is to take the pipe to a tobacconist or send it to a repairperson. These people will have a great deal of practice performing this task, and they will do it for a very modest fee. It is remarkably easy for an amateur to crack a shank while attempting this repair, as many of us can sadly attest.

Nevertheless, if you are determined to do this yourself, you must first determine what sort of stem you have. If the stem is lucite, the easiest fix is to apply a very thin layer of clear nail polish to the tenon, allow this to dry completely, and then carefully sand the tenon to fit. A vulcanite stem, on the other hand, is a bit more complicated, as you will need to heat the tenon and expand it in some way. There are a number of variations to this procedure, but the most common one is described below.

First, remove the stem from the pipe and insert a pipe cleaner into the stem so that it just reaches the end of the tenon (this is to ensure that you don't collapse the air hole). Next, carefully heat the tenon over a match for about five seconds (the intent is to soften the vulcanite, not melt it).

Then gently press the end of the tenon against a flat surface, keeping the tenon as perpendicular to the surface as possible, taking care not bend the tenon to one side or the other. After the stem has cooled, test fit it. If the stem is still too loose, repeat this procedure.

If it is now too tight, then see "What should I do with a stem that's too tight?" below. NOTE: It is very easy to ruin a perfectly good pipe with this technique, and I feel I should reiterate my earlier statement that this job is best undertaken by a "professional."

A less radical (and much safer) procedure that has been recommended to me by several people is to simply rub the stem's tenon against a block of beeswax until the tenon is well coated. Once this is complete, reinsert the stem. I am told that the joint will tighten after a smoke or two.

How Should I "PACK" My Smoking Pipes?

2007-12-12T00:28:00.000-08:00

A pipe must be packed properly to ensure a good smoke; unfortunately, learning to do this takes time and practice. In fact, the art of packing a pipe is the most difficult task associated with pipe smoking, and this can be very frustrating for the beginner.

I suspect that most people who have given up on trying to learn to smoke a pipe did so primarily because they couldn't master packing a bowl quickly enough to suit them.

The most common technique for packing a pipe is the "three layer" method. The objective is to end up with a bowl that is evenly packed from top to bottom; this is done by packing each layer progressively tighter.

Trickle tobacco into the bowl until it is slightly overfull, then press very lightly with your finger until the bowl appears half full. Fill the pipe again and press down until the pipe is 2/3 to 3/4 full.

Finally, overfill the pipe and press the top layer down fairly firmly. When finished the tobacco should feel "springy" to the touch. If it has no give at all, it's packed too tight. If a touch leaves an indentation, it is packed too loosely.

Finally, test the "draw" by sucking air through the unlit pipe; the resistance should be about like that felt when sipping a soft drink through a straw. If the draw doesn't feel right, then empty the bowl and start over.

A slightly different touch must be used depending on the size of the bowl and the cut and moisture level of the tobacco, but this will become second nature with experience. In fact, you will undoubtedly develop your own packing techniques with time, and you will find yourself loading your pipe without even thinking about it.

If you find yourself frustrated by the fact that you simply can't get the feel for packing your pipe, you might want to try a method suggested by Mike Butera. Mike recommends chopping the tobacco, reducing the ribbons into rectangles or squares about 1/4" long.

The bowl is then packed as described above. Some people have found that this method can make the task of packing a bowl much easier.

History of pipe smoking
12 Styles of Pipes
Four Materials To Make Pipes
What are the levels of making a Meerschaum pipe?
Do or Dont for Meerschaum smokers

How much prices does smoking pipes?

2007-12-12T00:27:00.000-08:00

Pipes range in price from a couple of dollars to several thousand; it is recommended that you stay closer to the lower end of this range for your first pipe. By purchasing a moderately-priced pipe, you will not be out a large sum if you determine that pipe smoking isn't for you.

A reasonably good quality "basket pipe" (so called because most tobacconists keep their lower-priced, "no-name" pipes in an open basket near the sales counter) can be had for as little as $15, and many "name brand" manufacturers produce pipes in the $35-60 range.

You'll probably want to avoid very small pipes, as they tend to smoke hot, and very large ones, as they are often harder for a novice to keep lit and may hold too much tobacco for to comfortably finish initially. Do not purchase one of those pipes you may find in plastic bubble packaging at your local discount store if you can avoid it; instead, seek out a good tobacconist and ask for his or her recommendation.

Not only will this give you a broader selection from which to choose, but the tobacconist is likely to have some good advice on how to get started. Don't be afraid to tell the shop owner that you're a novice. He or she will figure this out pretty quickly on their own anyway, and it is in their own best interest to help you select a pipe and tobacco that they think you'll enjoy.

While you're buying the pipe, pick up a package of pipe cleaners (the soft, cotton ones are best for most purposes), and a cheap "pipe tool" or "tamper"; you'll need them.

Five types of the pipe tabacco
Cross section of a pipe
How to Smoking a Pipe
Select a pipe that suits you
The Parts Composition of A Smoking Pipe

Briar Pipe Gurgle, Why is my pipe "Gurgling"?

2007-12-11T19:34:00.000-08:00

If the pipe collects moisture (this is normal), and you hear or feel a "gurgle" in the stem, use a pipe cleaner to dry the stem, ensuring you a cool, dry smoke, and a sweet pipe!

This is caused by moisture collecting in the bottom of the bowl or in the shank or stem. Possible causes of "gurgle" are:

Smoking too fast. Water vapor is a by-product of combustion, and rapid smoking will produce large amounts of it, which will then condense in the shank and stem;
Smoking a pipe that is not yet broken-in. I'm not certain if this occurs because the briar has not dried completely, because there is no cake, or "just because." Still, a new pipe will often smoke wet;
Smoking a tobacco that is too moist. This is self explanatory. In addition, some tobaccos, particularly aromatics, tend to leave more liquid residue than others;
Saliva in the pipe. Salivation is a normal response to smoking, and this saliva can collect in the stem. Keep your tongue away from the mouthpiece opening, and try to keep your mouth as dry as possible.

If your pipe begins to gurgle while smoking, run a pipe cleaner down the stem to absorb the moisture. This can be a bit tricky with some bent pipes, but it's usually possible if you put a small bend in the end of the cleaner and rotate it "just right."

Winter Smoking

2007-12-11T00:38:00.001-08:00

One of my favorite times of the year to smoke my pipe is the winter season. The cool, crisp air brings out favors in tobacco that we never experience during the warmer months of the year. The warmest of the bowl in my hand also warms my heart. A recent winter smoking experience also prompted me to write a few precautionary word about smoking pipes outdoors in the cold weather. Cold air and hot pipes do not mix!

Whilest walking my dog and enjoying a pipe I tapped out my ashes on palm of my hand (yes I knew better but I was absorbed in the moment). What happened next? You guessed it ... I was packing my pipe up and shipping to our pipe repair person for a new stem. The tenon snapped with less pressure than it would take to snap a toothpick.

Briar pipes also have the tendency to seperate from their stems in cold weather. This is especially true for military style bit that a push fit in place. There is nothing worse than chasing your pipe bowl as it bounces it's way along the pavement.

Blustery winter winds can cause a pipe bowl to burn out. Be careful when lighting and smoking. Wind rushing across your bowl will act like a bellows and super heat the tobacco inside causing burnouts.

Follow these simple winter precautions and you'll enjoy mishap free winter smoking.

Summer Smoking

2007-12-11T00:37:00.000-08:00

I'm rather used to smoking in the extreme summer heat but it seems we're in the midst of a country wide heat wave so I thought I'd take a little time this month to offer some tips that might help you get more enjoyment from your pipes as the mercury rises.

The first thing that comes to mind is tobacco choice. Try to smoke tobaccos that you know from experience to burn a bit on the dry side. This is especially important if it is humid as well as hot.

Burning pipe tobacco creates steam. This is one of the reasons why wet tobacco tends to "bite". Wet tobacco also has less flavor as the steam masks the tastes while cooking your taste buds. Excessive seasonal humidity adds to this problem. What I do to help matters is pre dry a day or twos worth of tobacco overnight in the driest part of my house. I'm not talking crispy dry but dry enough to where the tobacco burns correctly on a hot humid dry. A little trial and error will be necessary but you will be rewarded for your effort.

As for choice of pipes … there is really no right or wrong. There are two schools of thought. Some think that smoking a thinner wall pipe helps to dissipate heat better. Others think a thicker wall pipe is better because the last thing you want on a blistering day is to be holding a red-hot pipe. You'll just have to try each and report back. Myself? I'm in the latter camp.

Spring Smoking

2007-12-11T00:36:00.001-08:00

Finally, spring is in the air. It's this time of year when a lot of my focus is directed outdoor. My property and house needs much attention, the cars could use a thorough detailing, the grill is looking a little shabby and what's that green stuff in the pool?

Gotta work on that to-do list first then I can turn my attention to real outdoor activities such as BBQs with friends and family, fishing and the occasional round of golf when the web site chores are done.

One thing comes to my mind when thinking about all the exciting and not so exciting things that I'll start doing this weekend ... my venerable yard pipes and getting to smoke all the tobacco I desire (even the "stinky stuff" as my family calls it) without concern for who might be offended.

With the enjoyment of a wonderful holiday season with many guests and winter temperatures confining my smoking to indoors, I found myself smoking mostly blends that others found to be pleasant and acceptable. Don't get me wrong, I loved smoking those tasty aromatic blends that harken back to Grampa but it's now time to hit my taste buds with something with a bit of punch.

A rich, deep, dark English blend with lots and lots of Latakia is on the menu this weekend and there will be no one, not even a spring squirrel, to complain or pass a disapproving glance. Might even mix in some ground up cigar leaf just for good measure.

I mentioned yard pipes. What are yard pipes you might ask. My yard pipes are generally lower grade pipes such as Savinelli budget pipes or Brindisi in price range and style. Some are higher end pipes that have seen a few better days. All of my yard pipes have 3 things in common. First, they all are very comfortable with a lot of bent pipes that hang in my mouth well.

Being that I need both hands to do my chores, they must be very comfortable to clench with minimal effort. I fit many of them with rubber soft bits that slide over the stem end. These are great additions for a no hands yard pipe. Second, they are all some of the best smoking pipes I have. That may sound strange based on the fact that I have many high grade pipes in my collection but it's true.

My yard pipes smoke great. They have too. While doing my chores that last thing I want to be doing is messing with a pipe that won't stay lit. If the pipe won't stay lit and needs more attention than the task at hand it's not a yard pipe. The last common thread amongst my yard pipes is the fact that they are mostly thick walled with big bowls and durable stems. These characteristics lend themselves well to a yard pipe.

The big bowl mean I can puff away for an hour or so without having to reload. The thick walls, stem and tenon are great for absorbing the inevitable bounce off the driveway. Once I tried putting a tiny eye screw into a yard pipe with a string through it which hung around my neck. All I got for my effort was a few really bad blisters on my chest.

How not to burn your pipe

2007-12-11T00:27:00.000-08:00

How not to burn your pipe? How to cool down a hot tobacco pipe?

The most widely accepted solution is to take slow puffs and slow down further if the pipe gets too hot. The bowl of a lit pipe is always hot, and to establish exactly what temperature "too hot" is without appropriate instruments is somewhat difficult. We resolved the problem in the following way.

When a pipe is being broken in, clasp it firmly with your hand from time to time and count slowly up to six. if you can do this, then carry on smoking in peace. If not, then stop until the pipe cools down sufficiently for you to continue.

This is not a long operation. Five to ten seconds usually suffice, and you wont' even have to relight your pipe. And even if the pipe does go out, there is no harm done. Light it again.

Many pipes burns are caused by smokers who, fearing that their pipe might go out, draw too often and too hard.

Pipe Cleaning Solvents

2007-12-10T23:02:00.000-08:00

Pipe Cleaning Solvents - How to scrape your pipe, How often to clean your pipe

We receive many emails asking what is the best solvent to use for cleaning a pipe. The word best is very subjective but I'll answer the question here to the best of my ability. Once you've smoked your pipe more than 5 times it is generally time to run pipe cleaners through the stem and shank with some type of solvent.

This will keep the pipe fresh and prevent the briar from absorbing the foul tasting and smelling moisture that is generated by smoking. There are a few properties that a good cleaning solvent should have. It should have the ability to break down tobacco tar and resins, have the ability to sterilize, be fast drying, high in alcohol content, non toxic, impart minimal taste and be gentle on the briar, stem material and pipe finish.

That's a tall order but not impossible. Here are the common solvents we hear folks using with a bit of commentary to help you make up your mind as to which is right for you.

Rubbing Alcohol: cleans very well and has excellent sterilization properties. Can over dry the briar which could in extreme case crack the shank.

Consumable Spirits: Wine is out. Vodka is an excellent choice in the 90+ proof, non flavored variety. Dark spirits such as whiskey and scotch work well but tend to leave a distinct flavor behind. If you happen to like the taste that might be a plus.

Water: Doesn't break down pipe gunk all that well and will swell the briar.

Thinners and such: Under no circumstances should you use paint thinner, naptha, zippo lighter fluid or any such toxic liquids to clean your pipe.

Commercially Prepared Solvents: such as the one found on this page are formulated to have the properties listed above. Some are better than others. The one we sell is the best I've used. The downside? ... costs more per ounce than 100 proof vodka which works almost as well.

One last thing ... be very careful with any of the solvents listed above. Some are flammable and all can strip the finish from your pipe if you are not careful.

What Is The Balanced Pipe?

2007-12-10T23:00:00.001-08:00

How to hold the curved pipe in your mouth? I'm sure most of you have heard the term balance used to describe various pipes. We've also used this term so I thought I'd take some time to further explain the meaning and it's usage in relation to pipes.

There are to distinct types of balance. One is the physical balance of a pipe and the other is the aesthetic balance. Physical balance is important because it related directly to how the pipe feels in the mouth and hand. A well balanced pipe is comfortable and exerts little pressure on the teeth while an unbalanced pipe can be pure drudgery. This aspect of balance is designed into the pipe ... or not.

Often the shape, size and length of the stem plays the biggest role in proper balance. Once the shape and size of the bowl is determined a skilled pipe carver fits a stem to it that will properly counter balance the load and weight of the bowl and add to the enjoyment of smoking that pipe. Some carvers do this consciencely and some carvers do this without much thought relying on their many years of experience. I've found this to be the case with many "high grade" pipes over the years.

It should also be mentioned that what one pipe smoker finds to be of proper balance the next might not. Just as several people who take a size 10 shoe might not all find the same shoe comfortable. Here is a quick and accurate test to determine a pipe's relative balance. Take the pipe stem between your first and middle fingers approximating the same distance where your teeth would be.

Let the pipe hang naturally between your fingers. Before trying this with new pipes first do this with pipes you already have and you find to be the most comfortable. This will set a base for you to judge other pipes. See this IMAGE for an example. You'll soon discover your personal balance point. In Part Two of this pipe smoking tip we'll cover aesthetic balance.

The most obvious kind of aesthetic balance is the grain of the pipe. As a general rule of thumb grain should flow with or accentuate the shape of the bowl. Straight grain should be just that ... straight around the circumference of the entire bowl. The straight grain should end in bird'seye or rough burl on the bowl rim and bird'seye that is well centered on the bowl heel.

Flame grain flows across a pipe bowl at +/- 45 degrees and should end in centered bird'seye or rough burl on the front and back of the bowl. Cross grain should be more or less horizontal on opposing sides of the bowl. It should be even and equally proportioned in relation to the opposing side.

Between the cross grain should be equally well centered bird'seye grain. The bowl rim, if trimmed flat, should exhibit straight grain running in the same direction as the cross grain. The same basic generalities also apply to a bowl that has been sand blasted.

How Many Pipes Should Be In Your Rotation?

2007-12-10T20:40:00.000-08:00

This is a question that is presented to us on a regular basis. The answer has to be based on several variables such as the following:

How often do you smoke?
What type of tobacco do you smoke?
Does your smoking style lend itself more towards ending up with a somewhat dry or wet pipe?
Do you smoke the same tobacco all day?

As a general rule you should allow at least 1 to 2 hours for your pipe to rest after you finish smoking. This allows enough time for your pipe to properly cool down and dry out ... for the most part. The time of tobacco you smoke plays a role too. Aromatic tobacco burns slightly wetter and tends to cause a pipe to retain moisture longer.

Virginias tend to burn cleaner and drier and sometimes the pipe can be put back in action in as little as 30 - 45 minutes. If you are accustomed to smoking your pipe enough to conflict with these suggested times then you should be using 2 or more pipes in your daily rotation. If you are a "wet" smoker or have a few cherished pipes that matter to smoker a tad on the wet side than you should also be using 2 or more pipes in your daily rotation.

As discussed in a previous newsletter, it is best to dedicate a pipe for each type of tobacco that you smoke. So, if you smoke more than one type of tobacco during the coarse of the day than you'll need to add more pipes into your daily rotation. Each pipe in your rotation should have the minimum of 2 days off after being used for the day and cleaned every 5 - 10 bowls depending on the tobacco smoked and your smoking habits.

Hmmmm ... So let's do the math ... well let's not and say we did and sum up with the following general rules of thumb; If you smoke on a daily basis and have a good pipe cleaning and care schedule established the bare minimum amount of pipes in your rotation should be no less than 3. 7 would be the ideal minimum and would ensure well rested, fresh pipes and spread out your time spent cleaning. What's right for you?

Simply take these suggested minimum rotations and factor in the four questions above. Me? I'm a minimum 21 kinda guy. I smoke 3 types of tobacco each day and keep my pipes dedicated within reason. Aromatic in the morn, VA mid day and a smooth English blend in the evenings. I also like to let my pipes rest for a week and set aside one night a week for cleaning. Yup, 21 for me but I always find an excuse for more.

The Right Pipe Cleaner For The Job

2007-12-10T17:48:00.000-08:00

There are many things in life that are "one size fits all". Unfortunately pipe cleaners are not one of those things. Pipe cleaners come in many sizes and styles. There are "regular", extra fluffy or absorbent, tapered, bristle and so called "churchwarden" pipe cleaners named for the extra long length.

Regular pipe cleaners have been the bread and butter cleaner for a very long time. They are easy to find, fit just about any size pipe and do a very good job. Some pipe smokers use them exclusively. While they work well in most cases I wanted to take the time to expand your pipe cleaner horizons.

Each of the other styles serve a more specific purpose which I'll cover briefly for your reading pleasure. Fluffy pipe cleaners are great for pipes with larger airways and passages. You should use them when you notice that a regular size pipe cleaner just isn't snug enough to do a thorough cleaning job.

Don't force them down a stem if it feels too tight ... we've recovered many a broken off fluffy cleaner in folks prized pipes. Fluffy cleaners also work great in the airway of the briar bowl itself which tends to be drilled larger than the stem. Tapered pipe cleaners work well on pipe that have a lot of bend to them. They will normally glide down the stems of even the most sharply bent pipes.

I know each of us has a pipe or two that might not take a regular pipe cleaner all the way from the button on the stem to the bottom of the bowl without separating the pipe ... perfect time to use the tapered cleaner. The bristle pipe cleaner is essentially a regular size pipe cleaner that has nylon bristle embedded along it's length. These are my favorites. They do a superb job of cleaning even the cruddiest of pipes while still maintaining good absorbency.

Using bristle cleaners will allow you to go longer between through cleaning of your pipe and when you have to it'll be less of challenging job.

Churchwarden or extra long pipe cleaners are the only way to go for your long stemmed pipes. They can also be economical for your regular length pipes because you can cut them in halve or even thirds. What ever you do, you owe it to yourself and your pipe smoking enjoyment to not skimp on pipe cleaners, don't use the ones that you find in arts and craft store and experiment with different types.

Dedicate Pipes For Each Type Of Tobacco

2007-12-10T17:44:00.000-08:00

We hear this question often, should we dedicate a pipe for each type of tobacco?

There are basically three different categories of pipe tobacco; aromatic, Virginia and English. Each has it's own characteristics. As each is smoked they will impart it's unique flavor into the porous briar and cake of the pipe they are smoked in.

The more the given tobacco is smoked in the same pipe the more of it's flavor will linger behind. When a different type of tobacco is smoked it will be influenced by the tobacco previously smoked. This effect can last for the next 5 - 10 bowls and in extreme cases the pipe will have to be thoroughly cleaned to remove the previous flavors.

A pipe that is used to smoke many different types and blends of tobacco will eventually become very bland tasting. If you have the luxury of several pipes it would be a good idea to dedicate a pipe or two to each type of tobacco to avoid tainting your smoking experience. There are some pipe smokers that will go so far as to dedicate a pipe for each brand of tobacco.

While this may be extreme, it would be great to have at least 1 pipe dedicated to your absolute favorite tobacco blend. By doing so you'll experience the taste of the tobacco in it's purest form.

Preparing Flake Style Pipe Tobacco

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There are many ways to prepare flake style pipe tobacco (pressed and sliced) for smoking, here are a few tips.

First you'll need a good flake pipe. A good flake pipe has a narrow, deep bowl. Preferably 5/8" - 3/4" diameter x 1"+ deep. The most basis way prepare the slices is to put them in the palm of one hand and cover with the palm of your other hand and rub your hands together until the flakes break apart. This is called "rubbing out". Generally, the more you rub out a flake the more mellow it will be and less you rub out the flake the more intense the flavors will be.

This is the whole flake method. First note in which direction the "grain" of the tobacco is going in the flake. Cut a piece or pieces of flake against (at 90 degrees) the grain and equal to the depth of your flake pipe. Take the entire flake of tobacco and roll it up into a fairly tight tube or roll.

If done correctly the ends you have cut will be the long ends of the tube. The diameter of the roll of flake tobacco should be slightly less the diameter of the tobacco chamber of the pipe you will be smoking. If not, roll another piece of flake over the first. Place the roll into your pipe and press it down with a tamper with just enough force to flatten the top. Light as you normally would and enjoy!

This is the "sandwich" method. Prepare the flakes in the same manner as you learned in the whole flake method except this time take two different types of flake and roll them together. The possibilities are endless. Try a Virginia flake and an English flake or a Virginia with an aromatic flake. You might want to tone down a strong flake that is overwhelming on it's own with a milder flake.

Keeping Your Pipe Stems Shining Like New

2007-12-10T02:57:00.000-08:00

First, we have to give credit where credit is due. This tip comes from the video "Total Pipe Care and Maintenance". We've all had our vulcanite rubber stems turn that nasty brown/green that happens over time.

This is oxidization. Oxidization comes from the chemical reaction from the saliva in our mouths reacting with the vulcanite and from sunlight. This unsightly process can be slowed with a simple product that you most likely already have in your kitchen... olive oil.

This process is best done with a brand new stem or a stem that has been thoroughly cleaned. First, take the stem from the bowl. With your finger take a very small amount of olive oil and coat the outside surface of the stem. Allow the olive oil to penetrate for about 5 - 10 minutes. Now take a clean cotton rag and wipe off the excess.

It's that simple! Here's why it works... If you look at a vulcanite stem under magnification you'd see that there are thousands, if not millions, of tiny pits in the surface, similar to an english muffin.

This is normal. By applying the olive oil to the stem the microscopic pits get filled by the oil leaving less surface area on the stem for the oxidation to get a foot hold. You'll also want to keep your pipe out of sunlight, direct or otherwise, for any extended period of time.

Accessories of A Smoking Pipe

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Cleaners: Generally, a pipe cleaner is a cotton wrapper around a metal core that is being used to clean the draught holes of the stem and mouthpiece of the pipe. Pipe cleaners are indispensable and fortunately inexpensive. The two basic types are soft, fluffy cleaners which dry up any moisture, and thin, wiry cleaners which dig out deposits.

Pipe rack: A pipe rack is a storing place for pipes; it holds the pipes when not in use. Pipe racks vary from those that accommodate one or two to those that hold a dozen or even more! To enjoy pipe smoking best, one needs several pipes to accommodate one’s moods and activities.

Pipe tamper: A short metal bar with a flat round piece at one end to tamp down the lit tobacco.

Sweeteners: Liquid pipe cleaners, also known as pipe sweeteners, dissolve the hum and tar while leaving a fresh aroma in the bowl, stem and mouthpiece.

Smokers companion or Multi purpose pipe tool: The smokers companion, also called a multi purpose tool is the most useful of pipe accessories. It consists of a spoon, a prodder and a tamper in a metal holder. Usually it is built like a pocket knife, often accompanied by a knife blade reamer.

System: A system is an anti-nicotine device; it can be fitted in the flue of the pipe as an extra feature to regulate and cool the air flow, or to counteract the moisture which arises when the tobacco is burnt.

The Pipe's Mouth Pieces

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Though the bit may not seem the most important part of a pipe, it is the only part one holds in the mouth. Therefore, a proper fit is of major importance. Even the smallest defect (too thin, thick, narrow or wide) may result in unpleasant smoking. Mouthpieces come in many materials, of which vulcanite and lucite are the two most frequently used.

Vulcanite: Vulcanite is a dark-coloured variety of Indian rubber which has been subjected to vulcanization. Molded vulcanite mouthpieces have the advantage that they are easy to fit and therefore used on all industrial, machine made pipes. The disadvantage is that vulcanite discolours as a result of the oxidation of the rubber and that this material is not as strong as lucite and can be bitten through.

Lucite: Lucite or acrylic (hard plastic) mouthpieces have become very popular over the last years. This material, that is commonly used for mass produced pipes, does not discolour and is relatively strong. Lucite comes in a full spectrum of colours, ranging from clear to red, green, blue, metallic swirled patterns and deep black.

Amber: Amber, a vulcanised resin, has been used as pipe bit material since the 19th century. It is originally found on the shores of the Baltic Sea. Because of its wonderful colours (ranging from white to yellow to deep red), it is often used for prestigious high grade briars and meerschaum pipes. Amber has a fine structure and as a result, breaks quite easily.

About pipe accessories

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PIPE CLEANERS: Indispensable - two types - "soft and fluffy" to dry up moisture or "thin and wiry" to dig out deposits.

LIQUID PIPE CLEANERS: Also called PIPE SWEETENERS, dissolve the gum and tar while leaving a fresh aroma in the bowl, stem and mouthpiece. DO NOT use it for Meerschaum bowls.

SMOKERS COMPANION: Also called MULTI-PURPOSE PIPE TOOL, a spoon, a pick, and a tamper in a metal holder. Usually built like a pocket knife, often accompanied by a "knife blade reamer."

PIPE REAMER: A tool for smoothing out the "cake" and trimming it down to a desired size. Reamers come in a variety of shapes and functionalities.

PIPE RACK: A storage place for your pipes. To most enjoy pipe smoking one needs several pipes to accommodate one's moods and activities.

HUMIDOR: A thing in which to store tobacco. Ideally - cheap and air-tight (try Tupperware) - one places fresh tobacco in it and once sealed, it will maintain the tobacco in a smokable consistency indefinitely. A major alternate use of a humidor is the "re-moistening" of dried out tobacco. For this action one adds a source of moisture to the tobacco in the humidor before sealing.