Smoking Pipe

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Name: Shang Ning
Location: Shijingshan, Beijing, China

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Saturday, December 08, 2007

History of pipe smoking

The American Indians believed that a pipe was an excellent medium in avoiding hostilities. Smoking the Pipe of Peace was a well-known ceremony. The use of tobacco can boast a long history. Since the beginning of the 17th century, Holland has been the centre of pipe manufacturers and tobacco blenders. In the past, pipe smoking was not just a matter of opening a pouch of manufactured tobacco. One had to cut up the leaves oneself, or to grind the tobacco with the aid of a mortar and pestle. For buying tobacco, one had to go to the local grocer’s. That was a natural thing to do, since grocers traded in colonial produce.

The European pipes were made of meerschaum, a porous mineral (Balkans and Turkey), porcelain (Mid Europe), or clay (the specific Dutch Gouda pipe). Then, along with the Industrial Revolution, the 19th Century brought a revolution in the manufacture of pipes. The briar pipe has been triumphant. The name has been derived from the French word ‘bruyere’, or heath tree - a low shrub found throughout Europe, though principally around the Mediterranean. The root of the ‘Erica Arborea’ was discovered as being exceptionally suitable for the manufacture of pipes.

Who exactly invented the excellent idea of cutting pipes from this briar wood has, in spite of numerous anecdotes, not been determined. According to the most probable version, a cabinet maker in Chamont (France), bought briar roots in the market, offered to him by a merchant from the Midi. In 1854 he cut pipe bowls out of these, modelled from old porcelain pipes. As a result, up to today pipes are made from the root of this briar shrub. At any rate, it is a known fact that as long ago as 1857 briar pipes were being factory made.

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12 Styles of Pipes

APPLE: A pipe with a rounded bowl, in the shape of an apple.

BENT: A curved stem pipe.

BILLIARD: A common shape. Straight stem, slightly rounded verticalbowl.

BULLDOG: A pipe with a round bowl and a pointed heel and shank.

CANADIAN: An unbent pipe with a long shank and a straight verticalbowl.

CHURCHWARDEN: A pipe with an extremely long stem.

DUBLIN: An Irish style, shaped after the clay pipe. Straight shank, bowl leans forward slightly.

FREEHAND: Also known as DANISH FREEHAND. An asymmetric, one-of-a-kind shape.

OOM PAUL: A large-boweled bent stemmed pipe name for the Boer leader who smoked this variety.

POKER: A cylindrical bowl and stem, without bend.

PRINCE: A squat, rounded bowl and a stem bent near the mouthpiece.

WOODSTOCK: The same as a DUBLIN with a slightly curved stem.

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Four Materials To Make Pipes

Different materials can be used to make pipes. There is naturally a wide variety of materials, the most important of which are meerschaum, briar,corncob and clay.

Meerschaum : Meerschaum pipes were manufactured from the beginning of the 18th century. Nowadays, meerschaum pipes come mainly from Turkey. Meerschaum , a German word meaning literally ‘sea-foam’, is a fairly scarce product actually is a mineral, a rock made up of magnesium which can be found from a depth of approximately 25 metres. Meerschaum’s pipe-making qualities lie in the fact that it is a very lightweight, porous material, and is very soft, making it easy to work with. In addition, a meerschaum pipe changes colour over the years as it is smoked.

Briar :Briar pipes originate from Saint-Claude, where they were made for the first time in 1850. Saint-Claude is still an important world centre for Briar pipes. Briar wood has a number of properties which make it highly suitable for making pipes: it can withstand high temperatures, is exceptionally hard, yet extremely light and looked after, it will last a lifetime. The part of the Erica arborea which is used for making pipes, the briar root, is the part between the roots and the actual trunk of the tree. The tree is found on the hillsides of mainly Mediterranean regions. The older the shrub, the better the briar and thus your pipe. The wood is only suitable to be carved into its final shape after extensive treatment.

Clay :Clay pipes were highly popular in the 19th century, although nowadays they are principally manufactured for decorative purposes. Several different types of clay are frequently mixed to obtain a uniform colour. Clay pipes originate in The Netherlands, Belgium, France and England. One famous example was made in Gouda. Clay pipes also have a significant price advantage over briar and meerschaum pipes. One disadvantage however, is that they are fairly fragile, although this would seem to be a small price to pay for a real old-fashioned pipe smoking experience.

Corncob :The phenomenon of the corncob pipe originates from America. As the name suggests, such pipes are made from a corncob specially cultivated for the purpose, which is dried for approximately 2 years before being treated and coated. One cob normally makes two corncob pipes. What is unusual about this type of pipe is that, in addition to being very light and porous, it can take on a certain flavour and has a relatively short lifetime, although this is offset by very low cost.

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What are the levels of making a Meerschaum pipe?

The meerschaum is in block form and is sorted through to choose the best nodules to carve from. This block has been given a rough shape.

After the careful selection of the "Stone" the meerschaum is divided into sections to begin the carving process. The meerschaum has natural "Fault lines" where it must be split for carving.

After the meerschaum is split it is ready to be carved by skilled craftsmen. There are two choices for work in this part of Turkey. One is to mine Meerschaum and the other is to carve meerschaum. The carvers of meerschaum start directly after school (About 12 years old). These carvers will train under the masters who have been carving for dozens of years.

The carving process is not complete until the pipes are sanded perfectly.

The next step in the pipe making process is to dry the meerschaum. When Meerschaum comes out of the red clay in the ground it has a high moisture content. In order to ensure the meerschaum is dry a kiln is used.

After the meerschaum is totally dry it is boiled in beeeswax to seal the pores in the pipe. The pipes are first prepared by inserting a cork into each hole. Then the pipes are ready for the beeswax.

Once the beexwax is dry and the pipes are cool the pipes are buffed and fitted with stems.

Well aside from making the case this pretty much sums up the entire process of Meerschaum Pipe Carving.

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Friday, December 07, 2007

Do or Dont for Meerschaum smokers

Don't be afraid to handle or hold your meerschaum with clean hands. Remember, you purchased a meerschaum primarily for your smoking pleasure. The "added" pleasure you derive from a meerschaum is watching it color as you smoke it.

The conventional wisdom on this topic is that handling a meerschaum while warm removes the beeswax coating on the pipe, which highlights its coloring. While this is true, only the purist - the smoker far more concerned with the look of his pipe than his own smoking pleasure - need worry about it.

Do take care when removing the stem of your meerschaum by pulling it and twisting it CLOCKWISE while supporting the shank with the fingers. Replace the stem by pushing it and twisting it CLOCKWISE also. Twisting counter-clockwise could unscrew the tenon, and doing so repeatedly can strip out the shank. A little care here will be repaid through a lifetime of smoking pleasure.

Don't tap your meerschaum against a hard surface. If you tap it in your palm, be sure to support the shank firmly with your hand. This is sound advice for briar pipe smokers also. To empty a meerschaum, tip it upside down, and if the ash doesn't fall out on its own use a pipe tool gently to loosen it.

Don't let a cake develop in a meerschaum. Therefore do not worry about "breaking in" your meerschaum. Meerschaum pipes, unlike briars, do not burn and hence need not be protected by a carbon cake. Besides, the meerschaum is softer than the cake and it may crack very easily, since the cake expands with heat faster than the meerschaum does. You can ream it out, but you've got to be very careful in the process--the reamer will remove meerschaum faster than cake, so you've got to watch for spots where you've reamed away the cake and stay away from those.

It is not recommended to use pipe sweeteners in meerschaum pipes. The porous mineral will be soaked with the sweetener causing it to lose its functionality.

Do clean the cake or residue inside the bowl of your meerschaum. Use a sharp-edged, blunt-ended tool. Avoid digging into the heel of the pipe when cleaning the graft hole by not allowing the pipe cleaner (NOT liquid cleaner) to extend too far into the bowl. Do not use alcohol to clean the bowl of a meerschaum pipe. The meerschaum is WET and SOFT in the heel immediately after a smoke.

Smoke your favorite blend in your meerschaum. Each pipe will color differently.

SUMMARY:
  • DO NOT drop nor tap it to the hard surfaces
  • DO NOT allow a cake to build in the bowl
  • DO NOT twist the stem counter-clockwise
  • DO NOT take the stem out of a pipe while it is still hot- DO NOT use alcohol to clean
  • DO NOT use pipe sweetener.

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What is the Meerschaum Pipes?

Meerschaum is a a german word describing a soft mineral, which literally means 'sea foam'. Alluding to the belief that it was the compressed whitecaps of waves, just as it is said in mythology for the goddess of beauty - Aphrodite. It is of an opaque white or cr'am color and when first extracted is soft and easily marked,but it hardens on exporuse to the sun or when dried in a warm room or in a furnace. To polish the pipes is very important. The polish must be good quality.

Most of the Meerschaum for commercial use is obtained from asia Minor, chiefly from the plains of Eskisehir, Turkey, where it occurs in a small rounded lumps, in alluvial deposits which are extensively worked for its extraction. The exracted lumps are first scraped then dried, again scraped and then polished with wax. The rudely shaped Meerschaum is then taken into workshops, where it is skilfully carved by hand into beautiful pipes, or turned and carved into cigarette and cigar holders and articles of adornment.

Meerschaum is one of the major reasons for the fame of Eskisehir. A hydrous magnesium silicate H4Mg2Si3O10 and used for tobacco pipes. Its high porosity acts as "natural filter" allows to absorb the nicotin. That is why it takes a rich brown color as used.

It contains Magnesium(Mg) and Hydrosilicade in it’s structure. Magnesium doesn't make it strong and the hydrogen and oxygen don't make it cool. It is the crystalline structure; the arrangement of the magnesium, silicon, oxygen, and hydrogen atoms in a rigid crystalline structure that makes sepiolite so good for smoking. Eskisehir has the purest and whitest, most easy to engrave Meerschaum in the world.

Meerschaum deposits of the highest quality are found only in one place in the world - in the small city of Eskisehir in central Turkey. And here the deposits are confined to an area of only 4 square miles. It comes in other masses in various sizes and round. Because it is less dense that the water, it floats on the water. It is soft when newly – extracted and feels like soap but, it hardens overtime. It is also called 'white gold' because of it's color.

Mined with hand tools, and by men trained in this singular family tradition, meerschaum is excavated at depths ranging from 200 to 300 feet. The miners wash the raw meerschaum lumps and sort them into 5 categories according to quality. Each of these 5 categories is further divided into 12 qualities according to size, color porosity and homogeneity of the mineral.

Nearly 300 years ago, the first meerschaum pipe was carved by hand. And today, these unique pipes are still carved by hand. The carver, a craftsman of unique ability and long experience, examines each piece of meerschaum, calculating the lines of cleavage along which it should be split. The split block-meerschaum is soaked in water for 15-30 minutes until the material achieves a cheese-like consistency. Working with the softened material, the carver determines the rough shape of the pipe before the bowl and draft hole are bored.

Like all fine hand-crafted articles, no two meerschaums are alike. The carved meerschaum goes into a kiln at high temperature, a process that removes all moisture from the mineral. The shank is threaded and fitted with a stem. After meticulous polishing with the finest grade abrasives, the meerschaum is ready for waxing. Though there are many different wax formulas, beeswax alone yields the rich coloring associated with the finest meerschaums. Melted and then bleached, the beeswax is ready to receive the pipe itself. The subtle differences in color and tone among pipes are intentional, achieved by careful dipping of the pipes a specific number of times.

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How to Refurbishing The Old Pipes

If the stem has been oxidized over time or the bowl gives off an unpleasant odor and unpleasant smoke, it is time for a good cleaning. I use a multi-step process; cleaning the inner, outer and between parts of the pipe. The steps are:

1. Reaming out your pipe: Carefully ream out your pipe, removing all the old gunk that has been building up on the inner walls. Take extra care not to damage the inside of the bowl. Use a pipe reamer to clean the bowl. Pipe reamers can be purchased at most tobacco shops. Warning: NEVER use a pocket knife to clean a pipe bowl;

2. Bleaching the stem: If needed, the stem can be put into a jar of bleach. Allow badly oxidized stems to sit in a bleach bath for an hour. Don't leave the stem in the bleach bath too long, the bleach will turm the stem white. This process will save on labor and time when restoring a stem. Clean out the inside of the stem with 150 proof alcohol and pipe cleaners;

2a. Sanding the stem: If the stem is really bad or has any metal parts, such as a metal shaft protruding from the tenon or metallic nomenclature, it may be necessary to carefully sand the stem using a combination of fine grit wet/dry sand paper and water. Bleach will corrode the metal. Use 320, 400, 500, then a very fine 600 paper. Remember always sand in one direction, along the LENGTH of the stem. The stem will end up looking worse than before you started, but after step 3, you'll see a big difference!

2b. Removing oxidation from the stem: Sanding and bleaching can involve a lot of work and the bleach even can be dangerous to use. Another method for removing oxidation from a vulcanite stem that works very well is using "polishing" or "rubbing" compound, such as those by the brand name Turtle Wax or Simoniz. Apply it to the stem in the same way you'd apply it to a car. Use a damp cloth and polish. DO NOT use wax. This will do nothing to remove the oxidation. Rubbing compound is gritter and will cut the oxidation faster. Use caution around logos.

3. Polishing the stem: I use of two different buffing compounds that will make the stem look new. The first buffing wheel is devoted to orange tripoli, a buffing compound that works well to scrub off any residue from the stem. Careful precision is required in order not to remove the valuable nomenclature, or buff down the mouthpiece. The tripoli wheel is used until a moderate shine is achieved. Next, carnauba wax is carefully added to seperate wheel and polished onto the stem. The stem is complete.....now on to the bowl.

4. Salt-treatment (non-iodized salt): The salt treatment is a process of plugging the shank with a small piece of twisted cloth or paper towel, filling the bowl with non-iodized salt, and saturating the salt with 150 proof alcohol. If you can't find a 150 proof alcohol, use any high alcohol "spirit" that is available, such as Gin, Vodka or Jack Daniel's. Leave the salt treatment in for 4 to 5 hours before scraping out the bowl and cleaning it thoroughly with pipe cleaners. This process will remove all the tar and gunk that has built up, leaving the pipe clean and as good as new. Do Not leave the salt treatment in the pipe any longer than a few hours. If the salt is left beyond this amount of time, it may damage the briar or crack the shank. If necessary, you can repeat the salt treatment several times for those really dirty pipes.

5. Polishing the bowl: Polishing the bowl is a simple procedure, but caution is required. Careful precision is required in order not to remove any nomenclature. First carefully buff the bowl with a buffing wheel charged with orange tripoli (a buffing compound). When the bowl begins to show a nice shine, switch to carnauba wax. I have two different buffing wheels, one for tripoli and one for carnauba.

Make sure the buffing wheel being used is running between 1600 and 2700 rpm's, when using a 6" buffing wheel. Motor speed is VERY important, if it's too fast it will melt the wax. If it's too slow, buffing pressure will slow the wheel too mcuh and not buff properly. Don't use the standard work bench "grinder" motors. They run at 3400 rpm's and could send your pipe or stem across the room.

If you feel the least bit uncomfortable in doing any of these procedures on your pipes and stems, it might be best if you took them to a qualified pipe maker for cleaning. Most quality tobacco shops offer repair and cleaning services for pipes and stems. In many cases they don't perform this work themselves, rather they contract out these services with pipe makers like Clarence Mickels or Mark Tinsky.

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What are the types of smoking pipes?

MEERSCHAUM: A German word meaning literally, "sea-foam", alluding to the belief that it was the compressed whitecaps of waves. Meerschaum is a mineral - hydrous silicate of magnesium - one of the most porous substances found in nature. Composed of the fossilized shells of tiny sea creatures that fell to the ocean floor millions of years ago, meerschaum is found in red clay deposits. Meerschaum deposits of the highest quality are found only in one place in the world - Eskisehir, in central Turkey.

BRIAR: This is the closely-grained burl joint between the stem and roots of the White Heath, a tree found on the hillsides of mainly Mediterranean countries. Underground, this burl protects the briar wood, which is tough, close grained, porous, and nearly impervious to heat. Good briar is hard to find. The larger shrubs take a long time to mature...and the older the shrub the better the briar and thus your pipe. The most suitable root may be 80 to 100 years old, and the finest pipe briar may be from a shrub over 200 years old... aged and mellowed by time.

AFRICAN BLOCK MEERSCHAUM: comes from Tanzania, Africa and is usually stained in varying shades of brown, black and yellow.

MISSOURI MEERSCHAUM: The All-American Corncob pipe. It is a length of hollowed-out corncob, usually from a special hybrid variety of corn, with a straight wooden stem and, sometimes, a inexpensive plastic mouthpiece. Some veteran pipe smokers buy corncobs by the dozens, smoke one until it burns out or goes sour, then throw it away and light up another. (If a youngster uses yours to blow soap bubbles, buy another.)

CALABASH: A South African gourd similar to a squash grown specifically for use in pipes. The shape is determined as the gourd grows by placing small blocks under the stem, forcing it into a gentle curve. The mature gourd is cut and dried, then fitted with a cork gasket to receive a meerschaum bowl. The finished pipe offers one of the coolest, driest smokes available. Immortalized by Sherlock Holmes and in Jimmy Durante's signature line - "Good night Mrs. Calabash - wherever you are."

CLAY PIPE: Clay or pottery pipes were very popular in England and in Europe before the discovery of briar. In London coffee houses and clubs, long-stemmed "Church wardens" and "London Straws" were universally accepted. The finest clay for pipes is said to be found in Devon, England.

HOOKAH: Also known as a WATER-PIPE or occasionally HUBBLY-BUBBLY. The Turkish hookah filters the pipe smoke through water (or booz) for extra coolness. Many styles of hookah exist including those with multiple mouth pieces so that several may enjoy the tobacco (or hashish) simultaneously. The tobacco used in the hookah is usually dried whole leaf, soaked and crumbled, or canned, mixed with various herbs and flavors. The very moist tobacco is heaped into the bowl and covered with a small charcoal fire.

OPIUM PIPE: An Oriental water-pipe, normally made of brass with a very tiny bowl used for smoking opium. Opium pipes are frequently seen with 12 or 18 inch long stems and fancy braiding.

CAST IRON: Normally used to carry natural gas.

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Best pipes to hold with teeth

"I believe that many would find that the heart sings unbidden while they are working their way through a tough bit of theology with a pipe in their teeth and a pencil in their hand."

[C.S. Lewis in the Essay "On the Reading of Old Books", London, 1944.]

Which one is the best choice for hold with teeth? There are two factors governed your decision.
  1. The pipe's weight;
  2. The type of pipe's mouthpiece;
So, there are some recommendation for you:

  1. Full bent or Churchwarden are nice brands for hold with teeth;
  2. Churchwarden is smaller and lighter than Full bent;
  3. Stanwell Hans Christian Andersen II is another good choice;
  4. Dental Mouthpiece is the best choice for hold with teeth;
  5. P of Peterson not very good;
  6. Meerschaum Pipes are lighter than Briar Pipes;
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Thursday, December 06, 2007

Do The Corncob Pipes Yourself


We've all seen factory-made corncob pipes in the shops complete with plastic stem and, sometimes, a metal filter that filters nothing, but does heat up the smoke so that it burns our tongue.

It's pretty certain, however, that the kind of old-timer who made the corncob pipe famous didn't go to the store when he needed a new one. In the first place, there was probably nowhere to shop within a day's ride of his place... and besides, the thrifty farmer thought, why buy what you can make? If a return to that kind of self-sufficiency makes sense to you - as it does to many folks these days - you may want to try your hand at a homemade smoking tool.

To begin, you have to get hold of a good corncob. For one thing, the best pipe material is a recently grown ear that's still firm and not soft with age. Moreover, I'm told that the new hybrid corns are no dern good for pipe making because they're bred to produce as much kernel and as little cob as possible. In other words, the pith - the soft core of the ear - is too small to hollow out properly. Corn of the old Yellow Dent variety is probably best.

1. Corncob pipes vary in size and shape, so tailor yours to fit your hand comfortably;
2. You'll note that mine is of the "extra-large" variety;
3. Use the larger blade of your penknife to dig out the pith to a depth of two inches;
4. Employ your finger and knife blade as a guage;
5. Make a hole for the stem with a twist drill;
6. Cut your wild rice stalk above the joint mouthpiece and trim to desired length;
7. Prepare the end that presses into the bowl with a diagonal cut;
8. Clean out the stem joint;
9. Press-fit the bowl with a U-shaped cut upward;

Now, you got yer own dandy corncob pipe!

At any rate, select some likely looking cobs and pick them over to find one that has an end that will fit your hand comfortably and plenty of pith. Needless to say, you'll have to break a few ears to find out what their structure is like.

When you've found your cob, snap off one end to a good length for a pipe bowl... about two and a half inches suits me, and I like the pointed end because it seems to fit my hand better. You can trim the break nice and even all the way 'round if you want to, though doing so won't make your pipe smoke any better.

After trimming (or not trimming) the top of the bowl, take the larger blade of your penknife and dig the pith out of the cob with a twisting motion... down to a depth of about two inches (estimate by using your knife and finger as a gauge). You'll notice that the next layer out from the core is hard and woody. That firm ring is what gives your pipe its durability, so don't pare it away too much. Your finished hole will be one-half to three-quarters of an inch across, depending on the size of the cob.

In my experience, the thicker the walls of the pipe are, the cooler it'll smoke, so don't shave the outside of the bowl. The result won't be as slick looking as the store-bought product, but I like the cushiony feel of the untrimmed ear in my hand, anyhow.

I make my pipestems from the woody stalks of wild rice, though I'm told that the old-timers used the slenderest part of the cornstalk - cut near the top of the plant - or elder twigs. Whatever material you choose, make the stem about six inches long (shorter, if anything) and about a quarter of an inch in diameter... again, less rather than more.

The traditional cornstalk or elder pipestem has a pith that must be hollowed out at some point, either with a hot wire - the old farmers' way - or with a small twist drill. You'll be saner to do this now, before you bore the bowl to receive the twig. It's heartbreaking to split that stick while you're working on it and not be able to find another to fit your carefully prepared chunk of corncob. (After you've pierced the stem, by the way, be sure to blow through it before you suck on it.)

If you use wild rice stalk for your pipestem, cut the mouthpiece just above one of the joints so you'll be able to hold this strong point in your teeth without worrying about splitting the tube. (Yes, the mouthpiece is round... and yes, it's comfortable to bite onto.) The other end of the stem - the bowl end - should also be cut just above a joint in the reed. Since the rice plant is already hollow except at the joints, the hard bit at the mouthpiece is the only place you'll have to clear out.

When your pipestem is cut and pierced, prepare the bowl end by taking a flattish slice - about a third of an inch long - off one side to form a U-shaped opening (see the photo). When you put your pipe together, this cut will be on the upper side of the stem.

Next, bore a hole in the side of the bowl just above the bottom of the dug-out portion. If you like to do things the hard way, you can use the small blade of your knife for this job... though it'll take you a while to dig through the corncob wall like that, and you're quite likely to end up with a hole in the wrong place when the knife snaps shut on your finger.

To avoid all that trouble, I make the opening in the bowl with a twist drill of slightly smaller diameter than the finished pipestem. I hold the drill with a tap wrench - keeping the bit as near to a right angle with the bowl as possible - and bore with a full twist clockwise followed by a half-twist counterclockwise to clear the hole and prevent it from getting too big for the tube.

When you've drilled through into the hollow of the bowl, press-fit the stem (with the U-shaped cut upward). There's your pipe!

The first smoke with your masterpiece isn't necessarily going to be a joy, because the pith you didn't scrape out of the bowl must burn away and the woody part of the cob has to season a bit. No new pipe will stay lit, either, and the homemade variety isn't any exception to this rule. Two or three smokes should be about enough to break in the "farmer's meerschaum", though... and if your handiwork didn't turn out well, remember. that the making cost you nothing but a few minutes. Save the old stem if you can, and start over.

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Tuesday, December 04, 2007

Meerschaum Pipe Coloring Tips


I. Fill the pipe and smoke down about one-third, or to the height to which you wish to color. Leave the remainder of the tobacco in the pipe, and do not empty or disturb it for several weeks, or until the desired color is obtained.

When smoking put fresh tobacco on the top and smoke to the same level. A new pipe should never be smoked outdoors in extremely cold weather.

II. The pipe is boiled in a preparation of wax, 8 parts; olive oil, 2 parts; and nicotine, 1 part, for 10 or 15 minutes. The pipe absorbs this, and a thin coating of wax is held on the surface of the pipe, and made to take a high polish.

Under the wax is retained the oil of tobacco, which is absorbed by the pipe; and its hue grows darker in proportion to the tobacco used. A meerschaum pipe at first should be smoked very slowly, and before a second bowlful is lighted the pipe should cool off.

This is to keep the wax as far up on the bowl as possible; rapid smoking will overheat, driving the wax off and leaving the pipe dry and raw.

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Meerschaum Tips


What Is Meerschaum?
Meerschaum translated from German means "sea foam." This name reflects the meerschaum qualities of light weight and white color. It is one of the most porous substances found in nature and will not burn out. Therefore, it is considered as the perfect material for a cool, dry smoke. Unlike briar, Meerschaum is a mineral (Hydrous Magnesium Silicate)

Where is it found and how is it carved?

The highest quality Meerschaum deposits are in only one area of the world, the open plains of central Turkey which surround the city of Eskisehir. Meerschaum is mined wet from depths of up to 400 feet. Our carvers then transform this block of raw stone into smooth, elegant shapes and intricately carved designs, using the same hand carving techniques which have been handed down from generation to generation. This makes the Servi Meerschaum pipe one of the most prestigious, enjoyable and beautiful pipes you can own.

How do I break in my new Meerschaum Pipe?
There is no need to break in your new pipe. In contrast to briar, the natural quality of Meerschaum prevents caking while it allows you to enjoy the true taste of your favorite blend.

How do I color my new pipe?
Because of its porous nature, Solid Block Meerschaum's most fantastic characteristic is its gradual process of changing colors from white to a deep or golden brown. Since each stone is unique, each pipe will color at various speeds and shades. The coloring differs; according to your smoking habits; the different types of tobacco you use; and the amount of time you smoke your pipe.

How do I treat my new Meerschaum Pipe?
Do not be afraid to handle your pipe, as long as your hands are not excessively greasy or dirty. This Servi Meerschaum pipe has been carved for you to enjoy its cool smoke so HANDLE WITH PRIDE!

Unlike a briar pipe, which must be dried after each smoke, your Meerschaum can be smoked many times a day because of its absorbing qualities.

How should I clean my Meerschaum Pipe?

If cake starts forming in your pipe which is not unusual, lightly ream it out, being careful not to scrape or dig into the pipe itself. Use a pipe cleaner inside the stem and be gentle when seperating and cleaning inside the shank. If your pipe becomes dirty, use cotton or soft cloth with a drop of after shave lotion (a similiar product containing a slight trace of alcohol will also work) Gently wipe the pipe clean when it is cool. Never boil or scrape your pipe.

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Sunday, December 02, 2007

Georgetown's Cube Cut Pipe Tobacco Reviews

Perhaps typical for a cube-cut, medium-dark burley mix. Strong and unequivocally non-aromatic, with a distinctive heavy and tangy nutty flavour that I can find most enjoyable under certain circumstances, yet rather harsh under others. It doesn't even have the slightest hint of sweetness and it rides the line between being smooth and biting, probably depending on the smoker's individual palate.
 
I find this to be a somewhat smoother and cooler smoke than the Edward's Colonial sample that I recently finished; they are very similar mixtures in terms of flavour. I smoked them in the same pipe, my Genod 1/2 bent curved-bore. The difference I perceived may be as simple as the fact that I've had this Georgetown Tobacco sample for probably about a year, so maybe it's mellowed out a bit.
 
Or maybe my sample of Colonial was a little too dry. In either case, it's a tobacco with a strong natural aroma and contains a good helping of nicotine. It burns well due to its short cut-style, so take care if you're a fast smoker because it can become bitter-tasting in no time. Slow smoking guarantees full appreciation of the full nutty taste.
 
I like its uncomplicated room aroma quite a bit, it reminds me somehow of my grandfather's old house. This is a pretty good tobacco, but I have a penchant for more complex aromas and flavours after a while. Burns down to a dusty grey ash. Thanks to Dr. Ray for the sample.

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Gawith's Best Brown Flake Pipe Tobacco Reviews

This comes in long, wide slices, dark in colour with light speckles. It doesn't break up easily at all; it tends to crumble rather than flake apart. Lighting up is a slow process, perhaps I don't crumble it finely enough. My very first impression is that this is hot and not all that flavourful. I persevere. A mellow, earthy, almost burley-like taste is what I am receiving, with a pale sweetness blended in.
 
I make a point of puffing as gently as possible. It's still a little hot, but I'm noticing it less now. The flavour seems infinitesimally richer with each small puff. Better yet, I'm picking up a little of its subtle, unique aroma, which reminds me of fresh whole-wheat toast with honey on it.
 
I suddenly realize that the musty aroma has more sweetness than what I am actually tasting and that the heat of the smoke has just transformed into a slightly spicy seasoning. Out of the blue, the smoke has developed a nice body to it and I can tell that it's still slowly increasinging its flavour density. I'm feeling nicely relaxed too... this is proving to be medium-strength, though I was expecting less.
 
This reminds me of a strong brew of orange pekoe tea (without cream or sugar)... somehow rich, yet always a bit watery and light at the same time - never as full-bodied as a cup of coffee. It even leaves a dryness on the palate that mimics the effect of several cups of black tea.
 
The flavour doesn't evolve much in the lower half of the bowl, but the occasional puff is now suggesting more sweetness than ever. Also, the sidestream smoke, when I catch a whiff of it, seems far stronger than it was earlier. I haven't had a tobacco quite like this one before, where the earthiness is so pronounced (and one-dimensional, really) and yet so delicate at the same time.
 
The puffs at the bottom of the bowl are quite tasty and its finish leaves me feeling that I just smoked a big, rich tobacco. Puffing on the pipe is still sweet even after all the tobacco has burned. The room aroma is nice and sweet in an earthy, leafy way, like autumn foliage. I'd never call this an exciting smoke, but it sure is an interesting and contemplative one.
 
It took several bowls of this before I really started to appreciate it at all. Burns with no moisture build-up whatsoever.

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G.Smith & Son's Old London Mixture Pipe Tobacco Reviews

An overall darkish brown, medium-cut mixture, composed of about 40% darker tobacco. In the tin, this medium-strength mixture has a rather sweet, nutty aroma that suggests the inclusion of a good quantity of high-quality Oriental and Virginia tobaccos. It is a rich-tasting English that bears some traits in common with McConnell's Oriental Mixture, but it's much less intense and invigourating, and it provides a much smoother smoke.
 
It is perhaps akin to Rattray's Accountant's Mixture, although lighter in flavour and body, in that it is not as dark-tasting as it may first appear and in that it succeeds in giving a rich English flavour without being heavy or cloying in terms of latakia taste. Although I generally find this to be not more than a medium-strength mixture, depending on my mood or the time of day, I have sometimes found it to be a bit fuller, especially at the outset of a smoke.
 
Being a smooth, medium-bodied smoke that is not overly strong, this would make an excellent all-day smoke for latakia and Oriental fans. Its flavour is not extremely contrasting, but one does pick up on the simultaneous variety of dark and light flavours, as well as the mixture of sweet, nutty and smoky aspects in the bouquet.
 
I like smoking this in an Oom Paul-style pipe so that my nose gets to smell some of the smoke that rolls off the top of the pipe. It leaves a fragrant, distinctively English, aroma in the room that most people would find quite agreeable. From start to finish, it's a very consistent smoke, with little flavour variation, other than perhaps getting a little bit hot toward the bottom of the pipe, thereby causing some diluting of taste.
 
It does burn quite well though and I find it easy to overheat it if I advertently begin to puff on it overzealously. Due to its pleasant flavour and good smoking qualities, I would definitely recommend this to someone wishing to experiment with English blends for the first time.
 
At the bottom of your pipe, you are left with a fine, grey ash. From G. Smith & Sons, 74 Charing Cross Rd, London WC2H 0BG. Many thanks to Ron Blackner, who has a web page that you must visit, for the tin of this; it's rather difficult to come by here in North America.

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Fox's Banker's Mixture Pipe Tobacco Reviews

This is a ribbon-cut English latakia blend for those who like their tobacco with a rich and dark flavor. Upon opening the tin, one smells that intense and smoky, slightly sweet, slightly fermented aroma that characterizes many quality English blends.
 
Its mottled appearance spans a range of browns from light to very dark. This heavy, smooth-smoking blend contains Virginias, Orientals and latakia in a very good balance. From its full taste, one might at first think that it contains more latakia than it actually does.
 
The Virginias in the mixture lend a nice background sweetness to the smoky-spicy taste of the darker tobaccos in the mixture. The flavours are fairly complex, but well integrated with each other. The fact that it reminds me of Esoterica's Pembroke makes me wonder if maybe it has an alcohol topping like Pembroke (I doubt I would be able to identify it as such).
 
Mild on the tongue, deliciously rich and burns dry. Unfortunately, it's difficult to obtain in North America; if you run across it, pick up a tin or two for later.

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Erinmore Mixture Pipe Tobacco Reviews

The first thing I notice about this blend is that its pouch aroma, and then its flavour, don't seem nearly as concentrated as I recall in Erinmore Flake. This is the ready-rubbed version, mainly yellowish medium-cut with frequent flecks of darker-coloured tobacco, likely black cavendish.
 
As much as enjoy the intensity of the taste in Erinmore Flake, I find the lighter flavour of this version equally appealing and certainly more refreshing. The expected flavour is there - something that resembles a unified blend of pineapple and liquorice - but the taste of the sweet Virginia tobacco comes through quite well too, more so than in the flake version if I remember correctly.
 
The body of the smoke is medium, perhaps even a little on the light side of medium. Still, it's not a weak smoke by any means, I find it quite satisfying and relaxing, but neither is it full like Condor or Saint Bruno. One of its better qualities is that the flavour is quite consistent from the beginning to the end of a smoke, without significant degradation of taste, the way many non-flavoured tobaccos smoke.
 
Only as you get quite close to the end of a smoke does its flavour wane, and you then become quite conscious that you are indeed smoking Virginia. Because it is predominately a light and not-fully matured Virginia blend, it may have a tendency to bite your tongue a bit if you smoke it too fast (I wouldn't recommend it for outdoor smoking, the flake version would likely be a better alternative) or too frequently, depending ultimately on the sensitivity of your tongue. For me, this blend rides that line of being neither a smooth nor biting tobacco.
 
Make no mistake about it, Erinmore IS an aromatic tobacco, but its distinctive qualities (it's a high-quality Virginia blend, not just an aromatic) seems to make it acceptable to some smokers of English blends and unacceptable to some who usually smoke aromatics. Some have rightfully pointed out that this blend, like many distinctive tobaccos, imparts a strong flavour to the pipe in which it is smoked and have suggested that a pipe should be dedicated to Erinmore only.
 
I have found that Condor's even stronger flavour will cover up Erinmore's in no time at all. Erinmore Mixture burns dry to the bottom of the pipe and leaves me with a small, dry dottle. I found its room aroma to be pleasant: fairly mild and slightly sweet; I can't imagine anyone ever complaining about it.
 

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Erinmore Flake Pipe Tobacco Reviews

There's so much flavour in this Irish-style cavendish that it's way too much for many smokers. Some have compared the taste to Juicy Fruit gum, which is not too far off, although this is much richer than the gum. My guess is that there's liquorice essence in here as well.
 
The added flavour seems to be in the form of essences and not a syrupy casing, so they blend in with the naturally sweet Virginia base. Unlike many American aromatics, the tobacco plays an important role in this blend. Further, the room aroma is not at all what one might expect: it is somewhat sweet and rich, but not fruity like its taste when smoked or its aroma in the tin.
 
This is quite a satisfying tobacco and might be enjoyed by aromatic smokers who would like something stronger without going into latakia-based Englishes. On the negative side, I find it rather aggressive on the tongue, so I smoke it slow and not too frequently.
 
Not crumbling the flakes too finely seems to help keep the smoke cooler, but makes the flavour more intense.
 

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Edgeworth Sliced Pipe Tobacco Reviews

Made in the U.K. "under licence from the successors to House of Edgeworth, Richmond, Virginia, USA," these long slices of light and dark swirls are moist, pliable, and break up easily. The aroma in the tin is mellow and slightly leafy.
 
This is a simple, American-style burley blend that is subjected to pressing and aging in a way usually reserved for higher-end tobaccos. The processing seems to bring out the best that burleys have to offer. It tastes pleasantly nut-like and earthy, almost toasted, not really smoky, and even a little bit green.
 
What it offers most is a concentrate of traditional burley flavour, with little of the bitterness sometimes associated with burleys. It starts out giving an impression of mildness. Then it slowly builds strength and, although the flavor doesn't really change, more of that traditional burley spiciness develops during the second half of the bowl.
 
As well, a shade of that hollow flavor common in less-refined burley mixtures appears as one smokes onward. It burns slowly and produces a good quantity of cool smoke with a moist, almost creamy, feeling to it. This degree of body - roughly that of a medium English mixture - is rare in a burley blend.
 
I don't detect any appreciable bite from this, even though the smoke is strong. Any smoke exhaled through the nose produces a tingle that perique fans would enjoy. Be aware that this is a very satisfying blend nicotine-wise that some might wish to smoke in a smaller pipe at first.
 
It smokes dry to a fine, light-grey ash and leaves a rather neutral, but prominent, tobacco scent in the room.

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Danske Club Black Luxury Pipe Tobacco Reviews

This is an all-black, medium-cut cavendish blend from Denmark with a pronounced sweet, perfumy aroma. As usual, I have difficulty identifying the components of the aroma, but in addition to vanilla there might be a nut-like (almond?) flavour as well.
 
Unlike many American black cavendishes, which are often moist and a bit sticky, this is a fairly dry tobacco that does not tend to clump together despite its casing. It follows that this is a dry smoke as well, as many Danish aromatics seem to be.
 
It is mild on the tongue, but still a degree or two less than I expected. This blend actually has a little bit of punch for a black cavendish, probably due to the burley it contains. A slightly earthy flavour lurks beneath its sweet top flavour, which makes it remind me of Edward's Buccaneer and many of Cornell & Diehl's aromatic blends.
 
It's fresh-tasting, not syrupy-tasting. As one gets further down a bowl of this stuff, this earthy flavour becomes a little more apparent as some of the aromatic flavour seems to fade and, especially, lose its sweetness. It's quite a nice smoke if you like aromatics at all - medium-bodied and cool-smoking by nature, although its mildness makes it easy for you to smoke it a little hot inadvertently.
 
It burns down to a fine whitish-grey ash and leaves a notable vanilla-tobacco aroma in the room. Thanks Ken for the generous sample.

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